Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Contemporary Design

Comfortable Winter House Contemporary Design
For those with natural close mind set, it would certainly be so lovely to own a mountain house of their own. Situated in the middle of beautiful mountain scenery would be truly dream of every mountaineer in this world to have. What we are about to show you today is a piece of beautifully designed mountain house for those with truly outdoor mountain mind set.
If we are looking on the outside part of the house, this will surely reminds us with the neighboring buildings in the same location. So, there is merely nothing too special and noticeable on the outside look of this house. The situation is completely different when we look at the inside part of this house. The interior inside this house is rather temporary, but at the same time it is also warm and cozy for the house owner and their guests/relatives/families. Perhaps there is one big question mark in your mind for what we have mentioned above. We are going to let you know as to why the interior part of this house is [although] contemporary to some design perspective, at the same time it is also warm and cozy.
The facade of this house is done with wood and stone. That is the main attribute and essential in the interior part of this house. And this is the most eye catching too when you look it for more detail. It is the usage of many wood base elements and materials in many part of the interior in this house which has certainly given the house it comfort looks, warm and cozy. The stairs in this house are all made out of solid wood materials, mostly hard wood character. Support beams, floors and many furniture parts and items in this house are all made from solid hard wood timber material, to some extend, some of them are custom designed and ordered from well known wooden furniture manufacturers in the country. Although there are many details of the house made out of wood, but unlike other quite similar mountain houses, the design of this house is not so rustic though.
bedroom design winter house
contemporary kitchen winter house
cozy winter house architecture
dining room decor winter house
dining space with unique lamp
innovative stair winter house
minimalist toilet winter house
open dining room winter house
winter house furniture
winter house interior design
wooden chair and table design

House Design Residence

If you are a young family and looking for perfect modern house design, you must take a look at Vienna Way Residence architecture design by Marmol Radziner (Los Angeles based architectural company) to get an inspiration. Architecture was born on dynamics between needs (needs a conducive environment, security, etc.), and the ways (available building materials and construction technology). Along with incorporation of knowledge from many disciplines (engineering), and appearance of new building materials and technology, an architect has shift to focus from technical aspects of building toward to aesthetic design. And then, appeared an “architect” who is usually associated with rich client and concentrated on visual elements to form the historical examples.  Maybe you don’t know that in the 19th century, the Ecole des Beaux Arts in France has trained prospective architects to create sketches and beautiful images without emphasizing context.
So do not be surprised with development era has been available Vienna Way Residence at this time, which was made / created for young families. And one person who successfully to complete this project is Marmol Radziner as the architecture in Los Angeles.
And you should know that at Residence Vienna Way has 4554 square meters area of the park in Venice California. Next, if you want to find more details about Vienna Way Residence by Marmol Radziner, you must read this article:
For the first, talking about the glass ceiling and outdoors are available at Vienna Way Residence by Marmol Radziner, it has full integrate your home with native California landscape. So it will create the best living space.
Then for the second, although it may lead restrictions looks narrow, but it will give a spectacular design with the model has been divided into thirds share. There are, with two main volume placed at the outer edge of the property provided, and kitchen that made concave in the middle of a bridge that connects between these volumes. So it will show south structure of the house with a large space that combines formal room with dining area. And you should remember that, this structure is used on the property that has been provided, to continue on terrace located on the outdoors dining.
So that, if today you are the one of the young families who are confused to find a residence that fits and want to make your life be comfortable, So immediately visit or join with one of the family who lived in Vienna Way Residence in Venice.
Contemporary Vienna Way House Interior
Modern Vienna Way House Design
Open Vienna Way House Dining Room
Vienna Way House - Cabinet Design
Vienna Way House - Clean Kitchen
Vienna Way House - Deluxe Interior
Vienna Way House - Exterior Design
Vienna Way House - Interior Architectural
Vienna Way House - Kitchen Space
Vienna Way House - Living Room
Vienna Way House - Natural Bathroom
Vienna Way House - Pool Design
Vienna Way House - White Wall Paint
Vienna Way House- Luxury Residence
Wooden Element Vienna Way House

New Apartment Inspiration

In between changing my address everywhere and fighting with Time Warner Cable about why as an existing customer I don't qualify for Triple Play, I am mentally redecorating my new apartment. What's funny is that I think the owner chose me to rent the place the minute I told him that I was an interior designer.  He owns a company that works on high end commercial projects and we have a lot in common.  He has already joked that he thinks that I am going to make it so nice that he's going to want it back.  I hope he's joking. Note to self: do not invite him over after it's finished.
I'm still inspired by Tori Mellott's apartment that was featured in Domino magazine.  While I don't think I want to paper the walls, I do love the color scheme.  I plan to keep my new apartment neutral with some pops of color such as my blue French chair and patterned pillows.  I also can't wait to rearrange my art and create a new gallery wall above my sofa.  Packing it up made me realize just how much I own.

I'll have a lot more wall space for art and look forward to creating new compositions.  I still love this Jonathan Adler designed room and might be inspired to hang art lower in my new apartment.

I currently have a small wood coffee table but I really want a glass and brass to replace it.  They seem to be harder to find than I thought, at least in my price range, so maybe I push two smaller tables together like Grant K. Gibson.  I keep hearing that Fig trees don't do well in New York but I definitely want to add some greenery.

I'm moving from a long and narrow one bedroom apartment into a wider studio.  In all the years I've lived in New York, I've never lived in a studio so concealing or at least taking the focus off the bed will be an interesting challenge.  Tori Mellott separated her old studio with an Ikea bookcase.  I'll have to see if I have room for one after I get everything arranged.

Lizzie Baily also separated her living and sleeping areas with a bookcase as seen in Lonny magazine. What I also like is that she skirted her desk.  I have been thinking about doing the same after I move.  I will then be able to hide my printer and files.


Lonny editor in chief Michelle Adams also had a skirted desk in one of her old apartment.

Grant K. Gibson devoted an entire post to the skirted work table in his apartment.  Since my mother sews, I'm hoping I can talk her into making one for me while I'm visiting next week.

Grant hides a lot under his skirted table including a printer on a rolling stand. 

I've already been scoping out bar carts online too.  I love Deborah Needleman's and hope there is room for one since my kitchen is a little too small for mixing drinks.  

I already bought a tortoise shell ice bucket that I found at Aero which will look great on a bar cart.

Since my kitchen is small and close to the entrance, I will have to decorate it as well.  I have been wanting to mirror a backsplash for a while and this might be the perfect place.  I've always loved this one that I saw in House Beautiful. The mirrors definitely expand the space.

Here is another mirrored backsplash as seen in Lonny magazine.  I also own those bamboo folding chairs that will come in handy for guests.  Since I barely cook anymore, I want to cover the kitchen floor with a sisal rug.

In the other shot of Tori Mellott's living room, you can see that she has her television sitting on a dresser.  My television armoire served me well for years but I decided it was time to also find a chic dresser for my television.

I have a rule of not buying new things for a new apartment until you move your existing pieces.  I've gone overboard with excitement before and ended up with too much furniture but I did buy one piece.  I've been wanting a marble top dresser for television display and found a fabulous John Widdicomb one online for $250.  I couldn't even find a new dresser for that price and can't wait to see it.
What sold me on it was the top drawer with separate compartments that will be perfect for jewelry since it locks with a key.  Or I could always organize all my office supplies. 

The one thing that I will miss about my old apartment in my bedroom.  It was a lovely robin's egg blue color that that was so relaxing after a crazy day in New York.  I'm hoping that my entire new apartment will now be a relaxing retreat instead.  I can't wait to get in there to start decorating for real!

PAPERIE: ANCHORS AWEIGH

Hey Sailors, It's Allison here from The Social Type. I'm stationery obsessed and would love to share a bit of my world with you. With all this warm weather in Los Angeles, I totally have summer on the brain, which means my entire wardrobe is full on navy and white stripes. Lately I've seen a lot of nautical themed stationery, and in particular anchors are everywhere. I'm totally on board with this trend. I think I'll make a voyage to Sugar Paper  to pick up their Anchor Noteset, and send a few letters before summer hits. Anchors aweigh!
Print

1. Hey Sailor Note, Papersheep Press 2. Postkort - Good Luck & Ankere, Minimega 3. Vera Wang Letterpress Anchor Notes, William Arthur 4. Anchor Love, Smock 5. Anchor Noteset, Sugar Paper

ROMAN HOLIDAY

Ciao bellas!! I'll be zipping around Rome today and I can't wait for some city time!
AudreyHepburnRomanHoliday06
Wheeeee! I think I'll try and hit every gelateria I possibly can before I have to come home!

Monday, June 27, 2011

How to Reupholster a Chair, Part 3: Stapling

Reference posts:
Part 1: Stripping the chair
Part 2: Painting the frame

Also, I have been getting a lot of emails this week asking for advice on how to upholster different pieces. I honestly wish I had the time to help with all of your projects, but unfortunately, there is just not enough time in the day. I hope you're able to figure out the projects on your own. Otherwise, I suggest consulting a professional or a friend with upholstery experience.

Alright! So, now that the chair has been stripped of it's old fabric, cleaned and repainted, it's time to staple the new fabric on.

I forgot to say earlier that when you're pulling apart the chair, be careful to not rip any of the old fabric. Use a sharpie to mark what pieces go where and use these as templates for cutting your new fabric.



When you're cutting your new fabric, pay special attention to the pattern. Line things up both vertically and horizontally so that the pattern is perfectly centered.



Like I mentioned earlier, if the insides of a piece are still in good shape, I like to save the money and hassle and just reuse. I was able to reuse all of my burlap and batting here, which was great. However, I did run into a problem with the amount of staples I was using.



There were so many layers of fabric to staple down to a very small lip on the frame, that I was starting to completely destroy the integrity of the wood (not good). The great news about upholstery project goof ups is they are almost always completely reversible. Put a staple in the wrong place? No problem. Pull it out and try again! The only reason upholstery should be considered a more advanced craft project, is it takes some ability to think outside the box a little. If you have some experience with diy projects and sewing, you can usually figure out solutions to the inevitable little problems that come up.

Like I mentioned yesterday, I had hoped that buying a new electric staple gun that used smaller, rounded staples would fix my problem. But the staple gun was really weak and was more frustrating than anything. So my mom and I did some outside the box thinking and decided take some steps that would reduce the number of staple layers from four to two.



We used a big zigzag stitch on my sewing machine (the best model ever made) to sew together and reinforce the edges of the back fabric piece, the batting, burlap and webbing. It was so easy and worked really well.



I should also note here that I added those two pieces of brown webbing. I don't know if they were necessary, but I thought it might help give a little more support on the back (and it did!!).



Once the support parts of the back were all sewn together for reinforcing, we stapled that piece in place. Remember, the key to a successful reupholstery job is to reference all those photos you took of the chair in it's original state and as you were pulling it apart. Wherever possible, reconstruct the piece just as it was put together the first time. Don't reinvent the wheel here!

If you should get anything out of this post, this is it. Here is how I approach stapling the fabric in place for the perfect smoothness and tautness. I pretty much use this method on every surface I've ever upholstered:



1. Put one staple in the center top of your project, hold the left side out very tightly and run a line of staples out to the edge of the top. I usually leave a one inch space between each staple at first, and then I come back and fill in the spaces with a staple. Be really thoughtful about each staple placement though. It's easy to get sloppy and just put in a ton of staples, but that just ends up tearing up the frame and the fabric.



I LOVE this little tack hammer I got from CS Osbourne. It's perfect for quickly and quietly going over the staples and getting them completely flush with the frame. A regular hammer can tear up the wood and a mallet is usually too big, so these are great. I tack in the staples after every line of stapling, just to make sure the fabric stays where I placed it the first time.



2. Start in the center again and hold the right side and staple moving to the right. Tack in staples.

3. Now that the top piece has been centered and securely tacked in place, you have a great foundation. The next steps are all about pulling and getting the fabric smooth and very tight. Pulling down on the left side, I staple the left edge next, from top to bottom and then tack all those in.

4. Pulling down and to the right, I staple down the right hand side and tack in the staples. Your fabric should be really tight at this point.

5. The last line along the bottom is probably where you're going to need an extra set of hands. Have your helper pull down really hard and then staple in your center. Work out to the left with your helper moving and pulling down with you.



6. From the center again, work out to to the right. Your helper might have to use a pair of pliers for this last part. Again, you really want a tight pull here.



And those are the basic steps to stapling on the back piece. It's really not that hard.



Once the back piece and the webbing were in place, I cut out the fabric for the front of the chair back, again using the old fabric template (don't forget to line up the pattern!!). This time though, I gave myself about an inch of extra fabric to work with.



Okay, now for a little bit about upholstery adhesives. I have historically been a big fan of E-6000 epoxy. It works wells and has a strong hold. But I don't love how long it takes to dry (I get impatient holding and waiting) and once the first half of the metal tube is gone, I find it's really hard to squeeze out the epoxy.

I'm sure you know I am a HUGE fan of Fabri-Tac. Recently I started using this glue (also made by Beacon Adhesives) called Magna-tac. It is seriously amazing. It's similar to Fabri-tac, but even better. It bonds fabric, wood, metal - just about anything.



I used it a lot in this project to sort of reinforce pieces. I ran a line around the border of the back piece to help the next layer of foam and batting to stay put while I stapled.



Another favorite adhesive is Pro Stick spray glue. It is cheap and good. I spray this on the webbing layer and also on the second layer of foam and batting again to help everything stay put while I got the staples in place. You really don't want things shifting around when you're trying to match a pattern exactly.



After the Magna-tac and the spray glue, the next layer was pretty well stuck in place before I started stapling.



I followed the same stapling pattern for the second layer on the chair back, starting at the top in the center.

You can see below that I rolled under the edge of the fabric (that's why I cut it a little big). This helps to both keep the edges clean and not frayed, but it really helps to reinforce and strengthen the edges.

So again, to recap, just roll under the edge about half an inch, center your pattern and place your first staple in the center. Continue rolling under, pulling tight and stapling and tacking in the same pattern outlined above.



The arms are easy. Just cut out an oval a couple inches bigger on all sides. Pay close attention to to pattern though!



Follow the same stapling pattern rules above. Start at the center top and work you way around, pulling down the whole time. Get that fabric taut!



I was careful to run the pattern along the curve here (not straight) so that I could see the same design all along the top of the arm.

Once the staples are tacked down, I used a small scissor to snip off the excess fabric.



Next up is the bottom of the chair - the part that goes under the cushion. I draped some fabric over that part, carefully matching up the pattern, and cutting it a little longer than need, again so I could roll under the edges.



Follow those same stapling patterns. Top (or front in this case) center and working out to the edges, pulling tight the whole way. (see how the pattern lines up in the center here?)



Tack those staples in place and keep moving around and pulling tight! Leave the corners alone for now though until all the straight lines are done.



Here was another one of those outside-the-box thinking moments. The seat bottom was sewn in to place (one of the reasons I didn't pull off the old fabric) and it sort of sloped down, so that if I just stapled and pulled tight there would be a space between the chair and the new fabric. I needed to connect the new fabric with the old seams. After I stapled down the front, I glued a line along the old seam and pulled the fabric down tightly into the seam area. Later I hand tacked the corners.



You can see how the fabric slopes in here and now fits inside the seams.



The legs seem like they would be sort of scary, but they are easy too. Just cut out a notch in the fabric, but again, just leave enough extra fabric to roll in the edges. No need to staple the fabric around the inside of the actual leg. Just do the bottom row like normal.


The rolled in edges will look clean and by pulling tight down on the bottom, there will be no lifting around the leg area. If you want to extra support you can run a line of magna-tac around the leg. And don't worry too much about exactness here. The welting will help cover up the gaps.



Once all the straight lines around the bottom have been stapled and tacked down, it's time to do the corners. Again, reference the photos you took before. Here's what the old corners looked like:



For a corner like this, just pull down the middle and put one staple in.



Then just like wrapping a present. fold in both corners and staple in again.



I finished up the front first because I had to glue down the other seam parts. Then I worked my way around to the sides and the back, cutting around the legs, rolling in, pulling tight, stapling and tacking.



And then the stapling part was done!



It's really not as hard as it feels. It's one of those projects where you can figure it out best when you're just doing it. It will make sense as you're pulling and stapling.



Next steps: how to make piping and apply it to the chair and how to make the cushion!